黑皮诺的酿造
黑皮诺常被称为全球最优雅的葡萄品种，许多酿酒师在酿造黑皮诺时会特别采用不同于其他品种的酿法，以表现黑皮诺较为细致的风味。作为黑皮诺的原产地，勃艮第酿制红酒的方法也常被当作典范。本地酒庄大多强调采用传统制法，不过，从中世纪的熙笃会修士开始，勃艮第酒庄在酿造黑皮诺时所采用的方法非常多样，各家酒商和酒庄对于传统酿法的诠释各不相同，也衍生出不同的流派与酒风。完全采用同一种酿法的酒庄并不多见，勃艮第的个人主义在此表露无遗。
此外，勃艮第作为地方风土特性的典范产区，如实呈现自然的风味，也是大部分本地酿酒师的酿造哲学。他们经常自称是土地的仆人，而不是主宰自然，表现个人风格。于是，庄主如何诠释每一片葡萄园的自然风味，对传统酿造的不同看法，以及私下采用的新式酿造科技，便成为每家酒庄独特的黑皮诺酿造法。在勃艮第，有太多的细节影响葡萄酒的风味，在红酒的酿造上更是如此。
在勃艮第，很少有酒庄聘任专业的酿酒师，即使是名庄也都由庄主一人决定；只是一念之间，酿造法便可能因此改变。凭感觉与直觉酿酒在勃艮第相当常见。玻玛村的一位酒庄庄主说:“每一个年份的葡萄都不一样，酿法也会不同。2003年我几乎完全没有进行踩皮”
去梗与破皮
黑皮诺采收后经过汰选，葡萄马上就会放入酒槽。勃艮第传统上使用无盖的木造酒槽酿造黑皮诺。木槽通常容量不大，控温和保温的效果都相当好，但缺点是酿造、清洗和维护都很麻烦，而且有感染细菌的风险，因为无盖，所以无法密封，也有氧化的风险。有许多酒庄继续使用水泥酒槽，厚重的水泥墙内有一层防水涂料，容易清洗和酿造，保温的效果也非常好。当然也有改用较为便利干净的不锈钢槽酿造的，从最简单的无盖式酒槽，到直式、横式甚至可自动旋转、自动控温、淋汁、踩皮或倒出葡萄皮的酿酒槽都有，不仅方便省力，而且可以完全密封，避免氧化。不过，不锈钢槽主要为大型酒商所采用，在精英酒庄中比较少见。
葡萄梗
在葡萄入酒槽前，大部分酒庄会先用去梗机除掉葡萄梗，然后用破皮机挤出果肉和葡萄汁，不过，也有酒庄选择保留完整的葡萄串。是否以整串葡萄酿造一直是黑皮诺酿法中的重要分野。主张完全去梗的代表人物是已经过世的亨利·贾伊尔，他的追随者相当多。他说：“很成熟的葡萄梗很少见，通常只会为葡萄酒带来尖酸的涩味。”所以他在酿造前一定会先去梗，然后轻微地破皮。完全去梗一度很盛行，但现在大部分的勃艮第酒庄采用局部去梗的做法，依据葡萄园和年份的不同而保留一小部分的整串葡萄。
葡萄皮渣
不过，还是有些酒庄在大部分的年份采用整串葡萄酿造，其中包括 Domaine Dujac Leroy和DRC等名庄。整串葡萄的酿造方式有几个特点，因葡萄皮还没破，大部分的葡萄汁没有释出，葡萄皮上的酵母菌没有同汁中的糖分接触，发酵会很缓慢，必须靠踩皮才能释出葡萄汁，葡萄农要到葡萄堆上踩几下，让流出的葡萄汁和酵母接触。一旦开始，速度也不会太快，升温较缓和，浸皮酿造的时间也较长点。但此法不得不连葡萄梗一起酿造，梗会吸收红色素，可能会让酒的颜色变淡，梗中含有许多钾，也可能降低葡萄酒的酸味，未完全成熟木化的梗也会为葡萄酒带来粗糙的单宁甚至草味。
即使是完全去梗破皮，也会有葡萄农将去梗机所除掉的梗加回酒槽中，特别是在皮较薄、单宁比较少的年份，他们企图加梗以提高酒的涩味，但无论多成熟的梗，其单宁都不及葡萄皮的单宁细致，现在很少有酒庄采用这样的做法。较先进的去梗机器可以调整强度，除梗后保留完整的葡萄粒，可以有整串葡萄延缓发酵的效果，又不会有葡萄梗的缺点。破皮机的强度也能调整，强一点可以释出较多的汁，让发酵与浸皮更快速完成，弱一点则可保持较完整的果粒形状，在葡萄皮内进行的发酵和流出在外的发酵会有不同的香气表现。
The gospel of wine lovers - the breakdown of the brewing details of the "Queen of the Queen" Pinot Noir
Brewing of Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is often referred to as the most elegant grape variety in the world. Many winemakers use a different method than the other varieties in the production of Pinot Noir, in order to express the more delicate flavor of Pinot Noir. As the origin of Pinot Noir, Burgundy's method of making red wine is often used as a model. Most local wineries emphasize traditional methods. However, from the Medieval Xixihui monks, the methods used by Burgundy in the production of Pinot Noir are very diverse, and the wine merchants and wineries are traditionally brewed. The interpretations are different, and different genres and wine styles are also derived. Wineries that use the same brewing method are rare, and Burgundy's individualism is here.
In addition, Burgundy, as a model production area for local terroir characteristics, faithfully presents a natural flavor and is the brewing philosophy of most local winemakers. They often claim to be servants of the land, not to dominate nature and to express their personal style. Thus, how the owner explained the natural flavor of each vineyard, the different views on traditional brewing, and the new brewing technology used privately became the unique Pinot Noir brewing method of each winery. In Burgundy, there are too many details that affect the flavor of the wine, especially in the brewing of red wine.
In Burgundy, there are very few wineries that hire professional winemakers, even the famous villages are decided by the owner; just between the thoughts, the brewing method may change. Winemaking by feeling and intuition is quite common in Burgundy. A winery owner in the village of Boma said: "The grapes are different in each vintage, and the brewing method will be different. In 2003, I almost did not step on the skin."
Stalk and broken skin
After the Pinot Noir harvest is selected, the grapes will be placed in the wine cellar. Burgundy traditionally uses the uncovered wooden wine trough to make Pinot Noir. Wood troughs usually have a small capacity, and the effects of temperature control and heat preservation are quite good, but the disadvantages are that brewing, cleaning and maintenance are troublesome, and there is a risk of infection with bacteria. Because there is no cover, it is impossible to seal and there is a risk of oxidation. There are many wineries that continue to use cement tanks. The heavy cement walls have a layer of waterproof coating that is easy to clean and brew, and the insulation effect is very good. Of course, it is also made from a stainless steel tank that is more convenient and clean, from the simplest uncovered wine trough to the straight, horizontal or even automatic rotation, automatic temperature control, drenching, stepping on the skin or pouring out the grape skin. Both slots are not only convenient and labor-saving, but also completely sealed to avoid oxidation. However, stainless steel tanks are mainly used by large wine merchants and are rare in elite wineries.
Before the grapes enter the wine cellar, most of the wineries will first remove the grape stems with a de-stalking machine, and then use a broken machine to squeeze out the flesh and grape juice. However, there are also wineries that choose to keep the complete bunches of grapes. Whether or not to brew a whole bunch of grapes has always been an important part of the Pinot Noir brewing process. The representative who advocates complete stalking is Henry Jayle, who has passed away, and his followers are quite numerous. He said: "A very mature grape stem is rare, usually only gives the wine a bitter taste." So he must first go to the stem before brewing, and then slightly broken skin. It’s very popular to go completely, but most of Burgundy now use a partial de-stalking method, keeping a small whole bunch of grapes depending on the vineyard and the year.
However, some wineries use a whole range of grapes in most years, including Domaine Dujac Leroy and DRC. There are several characteristics of the whole bunch of grapes. Because the grape skin is still not broken, most of the grape juice is not released. The yeast on the grape skin is not in contact with the sugar in the juice. The fermentation will be slow and must be done on the skin. In order to release the grape juice, the grape farmers should step on the grape pile and let the grape juice and yeast come out. Once started, the speed will not be too fast, the temperature will be milder, and the time for dip brewing will be longer. However, this method has to be brewed together with the grape stems. The stems will absorb red pigment, which may make the color of the wine lighter. The stem contains a lot of potassium, which may also reduce the sour taste of the wine. The stem that is not fully mature will also be wine. Brings rough tannins and even grassy notes.
Even if it is completely stalked, there will be grape vines who will remove the stalks removed from the stalking machine into the wine trough, especially in the years when the skin is thinner and the tannins are less, they try to add stalks to improve the wine. Astringency, but no matter how mature the stem, its tannin is not as fine as the tannin of the grape skin. Nowadays, few wineries adopt this approach. The more advanced de-stalking machine can adjust the strength, retain the complete grape grain after the stem, can have a whole bunch of grapes to delay the fermentation effect, and there is no shortage of grape stems. The strength of the broken machine can also be adjusted. If it is strong, it can release more juice, so that the fermentation and the skin can be completed more quickly. If it is weaker, it can maintain a more complete shape of the fruit, and the fermentation and outflow in the grape skin are carried out. The fermentation will have a different aroma performance.
